Number

082-EN

Section

General Section

Use

Abstract

In Denmark the certification of "Green hairdresser's shop" restricts the use of hazardous chemicals especially hair dyes. This has made it possible for a hairdresser to return to her trade.

Substituted substances

Alternative Substances

Reason substitution

skin/respiratory sensitizing

Hazard Assessment

Substances to be substituted: The "green hairdresser's shop" restricts the use of many hazardous substances. The following substances belong to the group of oxidation hair dye. They are restricted by the Official Journal of the European Union L342/59 REGULATION (EC) No. 1223/2009 OF THE EUROPEAN PARLIAMENT AND OF THE COUNCIL on cosmetic products in terms of their concentration. Resorcinol has evidence of endocrine disrupting activity in at least one species using intact animals, according to EU database on endocrine disruptors. It fulfils the criteria to be listed in the Substance Database according to SUBSPORTplus Screening Criteria (SDSC). Toluene-2,5-diamine and p-Phenylenediamine may cause an allergic skin reaction, according to Annex VI of Regulation (EC) No 1272/2008 (CLP Regulation). They fulfil the criteria to be listed in the Substance Database according to SUBSPORTplus Screening Criteria (SDSC). Alternative substance: Dimethicon polyol was assessed by a chemist in the municipality as less hazardous. And it is not listed in the SUBSPORTplus Database and has no harmonised classification according to Annex VI of Regulation (EC) No 1272/2008 (CLP Regulation). » Check the Substance Database according to SUBSPORTplus Screening Criteria (SDSC)

Description of Substitution

Tina Burchhardt owns the hairdresser's shop ”Chac Moll”. She has been a hairdresser for 34 years. Many years ago she owned a traditional hairdresser's shop for a period of 10 years. The last three years of which she grew more and more ill, catching several pneumonias every year. She had a chronic sore throat and mycotic infection in the mucous membranes. She also lost her voice and was not able to communicate with her customers. She was examined by a Department of Occupational Medicine and doctors advised her to quit her job as a hairdresser which she did. For a period of more than four years she was not occupied in the field of hairdressing, and she was very sorry for this. One morning she read about "certified green hairdresser's shop" in the newspaper, and she got curious if this could be an opportunity to return to her job. She visited the first "green shop", and decided to get an education as a certified "green hairdresser". After this she started a shop of her own again. The concept of "green hairdresser's shop" focuses a lot on the substances in the products used. For Tina the result has been that she can continue as a hairdresser. This would otherwise not be possible. If today she enters a traditional hairdresser’s shop, she loses her voice and coughs. This leads to an infection in her respiratory tract that has to be treated with penicillin. "Green hairdresser’s shop" is a certification of shops concerning environment, occupational health and energy consumption including carbon dioxide emission. The certification is established and administered in collaboration between Grønne erhverv/Københavns Miljønetværk (a company network under the municipality of Copenhagen), Dansk Frisør & Kosmetikforbund (trade union of hairdressers) og Energitjenesten (the energy service in Denmark). In the beginning of 2012 there were 31 certified hairdresser's shops in Denmark. The certification also exists in Sweden. A "green shop" must fulfil eight requirements and the substances in the products are in focus. Hairdressers are not allowed to use products containing the following substances: • 1-naphthol • substances with aminophenol in the name (m-, p,- og o-aminophenol) • formaldehyde and formaldehyde releasers (DMDM Hydantoin, diazolidinyl urea, imidazolidinyl urea) • thioglycolic acid and thioglycolate • 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene • 4-amino-3-nitrophenol • methylisothiazolinone and methylchlororisothiazolinone • substances with paraben in the name • substances with p-phenylenediamine in the name (PPD, p-phenylenediamine sulphate, N-phenyl-p-phenylenediamine sulphate, N,N-bis-(2 hydroxyethyl)-2-nitro-p-phenylenediamine • substances with resorcinol in the name (resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol) • substances with toluene-2,5-diamine in the name (Toluene,2,5-diamine, toluene-2,5-diamin sulphate) There are also positive- as well as negative-lists of products, that can be used or not used, respectively. If a hairdresser wants to use a new product which is not listed on any of the two lists, a chemist of the municipality will check the ingredients and place it on one of the lists. Until this is done, the hairdresser may not use the product. At Chac-Moll we see the following examples of substitution. Colouring agents. With traditional oxidation the chemical structure of the hair is altered to allow dyes to penetrate deeper into the hair. Most of the colouring agents in traditional dyes are on the negative list (containing, e.g., 1-naphtol, PPD, resorcinol, toluene -2,5- diamine). Colours used in "green shops" have a polar structure and bind to hair surfaces. This is a totally different way of colouring, where the traditional substances are not part of the system. The colours contain mainly pigments and dimethicone copolyol. In traditional colouring systems usually colours are mixed with hydrogen peroxide (persulphates). In "green shops", often 4 to 5 colours are mixed to get the right nuance and hydrogen peroxide is not used in the colouring process. The dyes made by Elumen are slightly transparent covering 70% of the hairs natural colour. Right away this could seem a disadvantage, but Tina Burchhardt often experiences, that customers feel that this gives a more authentic look with more nuances, when their own hair colour is partly visible through the dye. It is more difficult to dye with the new colouring system. It takes time to be confident in the technique and learn how to mix the colours. The products are more expensive, and you have to use more of them. The possibilities are more limited than with traditional systems. For the time being only one company in Denmark supplies hair dyes with the colouring system Elumen. Tina advices pregnant women and breastfeeding women not to get their hair dyed. If they want changes in the colour of their hair, she recommends reflexes. This is done in a way that minimises the costumer´s skin contact with the product. "Green shops" can use certain plant based colours for colouring, but only products accepted in the certification. Hairdressers have to enquire if customers have asthma. Customers with asthma cannot get their hair coloured even with plant colours. Other examples of good practice from the shop. Permanent waving. Thioglycol is used in traditional hairdresser's shops for making permanent waves. Thioglycolic acid is not allowed to be used in "green shops". There is no alternative. Therefore, "green hairdressers" do not perform permanent waving. Shampoo In "green shops" it is recommended not to use shampoos containing sodium lauryl phosphate. Bright reflexes. In traditional shops hair is bleached and bright reflexes are performed using hydrogen peroxide (sodium, potassium or ammonium persulphate). The products are available either as a powder or as a paste. To avoid dust it is best to use the paste. In certified “green shops” hydrogen peroxide is used as well. To reduce the customers skin contact the hair is treated while the customer is wearing a cap or by using small "metal packages" enclosing the treated hair. To protect the hairdresser, only products that do not emit dust when mixing, can be used. The hairdresser must always use protecting gloves.

Case/substitution evaluation

The "green hairdresser's shop" restricts the use of many hazardous substances. A lot of hairdressers suffer from allergy and the substances for colouring (1-naphtol, PPD, resorcinol, toluene -2,5- diamine) are allergenic. The alternative substance is not classified, but the alternative substances are not known to SUBSPORT. The chemist in the municipality has, on the background of knowledge of the content, confirmed the use of the alternative colours. The new colours are more expensive, more difficult to use and more product has to be used as compared to traditional colouring systems. This substitution is successful because toxic substances were replaced by less toxic ones.

State of implementation

Full capacity

Date and place of implementation

Denmark

Enterprise using the alternative

www.chac-moll.dk

Availability of Alternative

Alternative is available on the market.

Producer/Provider

Elumen

Type of information supplier

User

Contact

www.chac-moll.dk

Further information

Interview with a hairdresser from a "green hairdressers shop" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EVqeQ0HRSC4

Publication source: author, company, institute, year

Interview with a hairdresser from a "green hairdresser's shop" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EVqeQ0HRSC4

Date, reviewed

December 11, 2020