Number

421-EN

Section

General Section

Use

Abstract

Lidl decided to eliminate DMF containing PU-leather by using the groundbreaking DMF-free INSQIN®-technology for the coating of fabrics with PU. PU-Coated textiles are used in industries as diverse as e.g. fashion apparel &footwear, sportswear and automotive.

Substituted substances

Reliability of information

Evidence of implementation: there is evidence that the solution was implemented and in use at time of publication
Convergent opinions: conclusions for similar cases are similar to the ones in this case study

Reason substitution

CMR

Other type of alternative

Waterborne PU coating technology for textiles

Hazard Assessment

Substance to be substituted: DMF is included on the REACH restriction list, according to Article 73 of Regulation (EG) No. 1907/2006 (REACH Regulation). It is listed on the Substance Database according to SUBSPORTplus Screening Criteria (SDSC) as CMR cat. 1A or 1B. » Check the Substance Database according to SUBSPORTplus Screening Criteria (SDSC)

Description of Substitution

Lidl started to use a novel DMF-free synthetic leather for the manufacture of its products. PU coated textile, or synthetic PU-leather, is an important class of textile material. Around four billion square meters are being produced every year. It is used mainly in the fashion, sports footwear and apparel industry to make shoes, garments and accessories. Woven-/Non-Woven- or Knitted- synthetic leather is mainly manufactured according to the “wet process”: a process that involves the use of large volumes of dimethylformamide (CAS NO 68-12-2). The polyurethane resin which is dissolved in DMF is the precipitated onto a textile fabric. This process was established more than 50 years ago and remains ubiquitous. The production of these materials with the conventional “wet process” is of concern, as DMF is categorized toxic to reproduction 1B and continuous exposition to DMF can result in chronic respiratory disease. The incorporation of large amounts of DMF can result in harm for gastrointestinal tract, cardiovascular system and the central nervous system. DMF decomposes under the influence of heat and light into formaldehyde (CAS NO 50-00-0, carcinogenic 1B) and dimethyl amine (CAS NO 124-40-3). DMF recently entered the prioritization list for authorization in REACH. Next to the health risks for workers in the mills upon exposure, emission into the atmosphere is also of concern. Traces up to 0.1% usually remain in the coated textiles and are emitted slowly to the atmosphere. The conventional process consumes a lot of ressources: -    The process water contains DMF and has to be reclaimed by distillation, requiring a significant amount of energy. -    The process consumes much water, as it requires a constant inflow of clean water to fill the coagulation and washing baths, replacing that removed for DMF reclamation. The new INSQIN® technology of Polyurethane Dispersions (PUD) enables the manufacture of Woven-/Non-Woven- or Knitted- synthetic leather in a process quite different to the standard: -    No DMF at all -    No organic solvents at all -    95% less water -    50% less energy consumption Thus the new technology removes the pollution risk to air, water and ground and assures a safer workplace for the operatives. Considering such an environmental and social impact, the substitution of solventborne PU technology brings the sustainability for the manufacture of PU synthetic leather to the next level.

Case/substitution evaluation

This case story describes a new technology developed to eliminate DMF used in the production of PU coated textiles.

State of implementation

In use

Date and place of implementation

Start in Q3/2015 for evaluation and roll-out

Enterprise using the alternative

https://www.lidl.de/

Availability ofAlternative

on the market

Type of information supplier

Producer / distributor

Contact

https://www.covestro.com/

Date, reviewed

February 9, 2022